Few modern chronographs can balance everyday wearability and collectable intrigue like the Rolex Daytona. In 2023, Rolex quietly re-engineered the entire line for its 60th anniversary, ushering in subtle case/dial refinements and a new movement. Within that refreshed family, the white-gold ref. 126509 with a bright blue dial has become a connoisseur’s “stealth-luxury” favourite—while at the other end of the spectrum sit the ultra-scarce hard-stone “Rubellite” Daytonas, pieces that surface only occasionally at top auction houses. Beyond the Daytona, Rolex watch collections—from the Submariner and GMT-Master II to the Day-Date and Oyster Perpetual—have each defined benchmarks in their categories, making every release a moment of significance for collectors. Here’s how these highlights compare, and why both fascinate collectors.
The Modern Benchmark: Rolex 126509 Blue
Rolex’s current white-gold Daytona, ref. 126509 pairs a 40 mm Oyster case and bracelet in 18 kt white gold with a luminous “bright blue” dial. Its crisp markers and snailed sub-registers read cleanly at a glance. Beyond aesthetics, the big story is inside: Rolex’s latest in-house chronograph, calibre 4131, brings a ~72-hour power reserve, the Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring, and Paraflex shock protection—evolutionary upgrades aimed at precision and reliability. It remains water-resistant to 100 m and uses the secure Oysterlock clasp with Easylink extension. U.S. retail is listed at $51,800. This is a precious-metal sports watch designed to be genuinely wearable.
Compared with the outgoing 116509, the 126509 adds the new movement and small design tweaks: slightly finer sub-dial rings and refined markers/lugs that give the watch a cleaner, tighter look on the wrist. Enthusiasts view it as the “blue dial Daytona done right” for the current generation.
Cultural signal? You will occasionally spot the 126509 in celebrity circles—LeBron James wore a 2023 white-gold 126509 to celebrate his 40,000-point NBA milestone. However, it flies under the radar compared to gem-set pieces, which is exactly why many seasoned collectors love it.
The exotic grails: hard-stone “Rubellite” Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
On the opposite end of the Daytona spectrum are the factory hard-stone dials—“rubellite” among the most coveted. In auction catalogues, these appear on white-gold references like 116519 (leather strap) and 116509 (Oyster bracelet), often with diamond hour markers and, more rarely, gem-set bezels (think ruby baguettes on 116589). Production was extremely limited; each stone dial is naturally unique in hue and texture, which amplifies desirability.
A quick mineral note: “Rubellite” is a vivid red-to-pink variety of tourmaline, but you’ll sometimes see auction houses describe these dials as “grossular garnet (rubellite)”. The key takeaway for collectors is less the precise mineralogy and more the fact that they’re factory hard-stone dials, rarely seen and obsessively pursued. Examples catalogued by Phillips and Sotheby’s include an 116509H and multiple white-gold pieces with diamond indexes. These are not aftermarket swaps; they’re Rolex-made exotica that sit in the brand’s lore alongside other stone dials like sodalite and chrysoprase.
Auction performance underscores scarcity. Rolex rubellite dial 116519 hammered at Christie’s Hong Kong in March 2023 for HK$604,800 (about US$77,000 at the time), with the lot note stressing that hard-stone Daytonas are among the rarest modern variants. Results vary widely by configuration, provenance, and condition, but demand is consistently strong when clean, fully documented examples appear.
Rarity can go a step further with retailer-signed or one-off pieces. In 2025, Sotheby’s offered a white-gold 116509 retailed by Asprey, described as a “piece unique” with a purple dial—catnip for collectors who chase singular configurations and paperwork. While not every unusual dial equals a prototype, the existence of such watches shows how deep the Daytona rabbit hole can go.
4131 vs. 4130: what matters on the wrist
If you’re torn between a contemporary 126509 and an older stone-dial white-gold Daytona (typically running calibre 4130), both are excellent chronographs in Rolex watch collections. The 4131 adds the Chronergy escapement and updated finishing (Rolex Côtes de Genève and a skeletonised rotor), plus incremental gains in efficiency. On the wrist, both deliver a similar chronograph feel; the new movement is about refinement and long-term serviceability rather than a wholesale change in user experience. Note that only the 2023 platinum 126506 gets the exhibition caseback; gold models, including 126509, remain closed.
Picking Rolex Daytona: blue-dial daily vs. rubellite trophy
-
Wearing intent. Want a precious-metal Daytona you can throw on any day? The 126509 blue dial is compelling: legible, versatile, and modern mechanically. The brushed/ polished Oyster bracelet and bright blue dial read sporty-elegant rather than formal.
-
Conversation piece. If you want a “stop the room” Daytona that’s still factory Rolex, a rubellite hard-stone dial delivers. Expect a more formal vibe (especially with diamond markers or a gem-set bezel) and far greater acquisition effort.
-
Service & parts. Rolex supports both 4130 and 4131; servicing stone-dial pieces may involve longer waits and extra care due to dial fragility. That’s part of the trade-off with any hard-stone watch.
-
Budget & availability. The 126509 has a published retail price and predictable specs; allocation can still be tight. Rubellite Daytonas don’t follow retail logic—they surface via trusted dealers and major auctions, with pricing tied to condition, configuration, and provenance.
Authenticity checklist for stone-dial Daytonas
Because gem-set and hard-stone Daytonas command premiums, authenticity matters:
-
Papers & references. Match the reference (e.g., 116519 vs. 116509 vs. 116589) and serial range to the configuration you’re seeing. Cross-check against past sales at reputable houses (Christie’s, Sotheby’s, Phillips).
-
Dial description. Catalogues should explicitly state “rubellite/grossular garnet Rolex rubellite dial” and note diamond indexes if present. Vague or aftermarket claims are a red flag.
-
Provenance. Retailer-signed or “piece unique” claims should be backed by period paperwork (e.g., Asprey documentation). When in doubt, buy the seller.
Where the Daytona catalogue is heading
Rolex continues to iterate softly. The 2023 refresh aligned the entire line around 4131, refined the dial graphics, and—on platinum—introduced a rare exhibition back. In 2024, Rolex extended the theme with new dial/bezel variations (including mother-of-pearl combos and gem settings). In collections, it was underscored that the Rolex Daytona remains both a technical instrument and a canvas for high jewellery. Expect the precious-metal models (including 126509) to stay core while occasional off-catalogue or boutique-level creations keep the collector flame burning.
Bottom line
If you want the most current, quietly opulent Daytona to wear often, the 126509 bright blue nails the brief: modern movement, fantastic legibility, and white-gold heft without shouting. A rubellite hard-stone dial Daytona is among the most compelling modern exotica Rolex has produced—rare, beautiful, and perennially chased at top auctions. Different tools for different goals, both unmistakably Daytona.
Do you want to buy Rolex watch in Dubai? At Chrono Divino, we curate rare and modern Rolex highlights—including pieces like the 126509 Blue Dial and sought-after hard-stone editions. Explore our collection today and secure the timepiece that speaks to your passion.