Only a few brands command as much respect as Patek Philippe in luxury timepieces. Known for its impeccable craftsmanship and enduring elegance, the brand has long set the standard for sophistication. For the first time in 25 years, Patek Philippe unveiled the Cubitus collection on October 17, 2024, in Munich, Germany—a momentous event that sent ripples through the watchmaking world. 

The Cubitus, as it is called, marks a significant departure from the brand’s iconic Nautilus and Aquanaut lines, sparking both excitement and skepticism among collectors and enthusiasts. With its bold design, sharp angles, and technical innovations, the Cubitus is undeniably a statement piece. 

But does it represent a bold evolution for Patek Philippe watches, or is it a misstep in the shadow of the legendary Nautilus? Let’s dive into the details.

Cubitus Controversy: Inspired Evolution or Lazy Reinterpretation?

Critics have not held back in their assessment of the Patek Philippe Cubitus. Some dismiss it as merely a squared-off reinterpretation of the Nautilus rather than an innovative new design. Detractors argue that the watch lacks originality; some even label the design as “lazy.” This criticism stems from believing that the Cubitus leans heavily on Patek’s past successes rather than breaking new ground in luxury watchmaking.

Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern validated some of these concerns with his pragmatic take on the design philosophy behind the Cubitus. His statement—"You should not always reinvent everything from zero. Take the best of what you know and improve it." — This suggests that the brand deliberately built upon its legacy rather than pursuing a radical departure. While this approach aligns with Patek's tradition of evolution rather than revolution, it also fuels the debate. 

A New Direction for Patek Philippe

The Cubitus is not just another addition to Patek Philippe’s portfolio—it is a deliberate step into uncharted territory. Thierry Stern had long envisioned a square watch in the brand’s collection. The Cubitus stands out as a rarity because nearly 85% of luxury watches today are round. Its 45mm case, with its sharp lines and structured geometry, challenges the conventional aesthetics of luxury timepieces. While Stern describes it as square, some see hints of an octagonal influence, reminiscent of the Nautilus’s iconic bezel. However, the Cubitus takes a bolder approach, embracing precision and clarity with its straight edges and subtly curved corners.

Design: Sharp Lines vs. Soft Curves

The Nautilus, designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, has long been celebrated for its porthole-inspired case, rounded octagonal bezel, and distinctive side protrusions that resemble hinges. Inspired by luxury ocean liners and Jules Verne’s 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, the Nautilus broke conventions when it debuted in 1976, eventually becoming one of the most iconic watches in the world.

One of its most recognisable features is the horizontally embossed dial, which, combined with an integrated bracelet, gave the Nautilus both aesthetic appeal and structural resilience. Beyond its striking design, the watch offered remarkable functionality, boasting water resistance up to 120 meters. It was an exceptional feat for a luxury sports watch at the time.

In contrast, Cubitus embraces sharp angles and a more structured design. Its four equal-length edges and polished surfaces create a striking visual impact, while the curved corners add a touch of refinement. This bold aesthetic sets the Cubitus apart, appealing to a new generation of collectors who value contemporary design. However, it also risks alienating traditionalists who cherish the Nautilus’s understated elegance.

Nautilus vs. Cubitus: A Technical Showdown of Horological Mastery

Movement & Caliber

​The Patek Philippe Nautilus and Cubitus collections feature distinct movements and calibres across their various models:

Nautilus Collection

The Nautilus collection utilises movements that emphasise precision and functionality:

• Chronograph Models: For instance, Ref. 5980 utilises the Caliber CH 28-520 C, Patek Philippe's first in-house automatic chronograph movement. This calibre combines a flyback chronograph function with a date display and a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.

• Annual Calendar Models: An example is the Ref. 5726/1A-014, which houses the Caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H. This self-winding movement integrates an annual calendar complication, displaying the day, date, month, moon phases, and a 24-hour indication. ​

Cubitus Collection

The Cubitus collection introduces new movements that align with its contemporary design and functionalities:

• Time and Date Models: The Ref. 5821/1A and Ref. 5821/1AR are powered by the Caliber 26-330 S C, the same self-winding movement found in some Nautilus models. This calibre features a stop-second function, enhancing time-setting precision.

• Grand Date Model: The Ref. 5822P-001 introduces the Caliber 240 PS CI J LU, a new ultra-thin self-winding movement specifically developed for this model. Based on the renowned Caliber 240, this movement incorporates complications such as an instantaneous grand date, moon phases, and day-of-the-week indications. Its development led to the filing of six patent applications related to energy management and display mechanisms.

Technical Edge: Each of these calibres exemplifies Patek Philippe's commitment to horological innovation and craftsmanship, tailored to the specific functionalities and aesthetics of the Nautilus and Cubitus collections. However, in the Cubitus collection, no entirely new movement has been introduced—only modifications of existing Nautilus movements have been made to suit the collection’s design and functional requirements.

Seconds Display: Sweep vs. Small Seconds

Nautilus Watch: Features a sweep seconds hand, which provides a smooth, continuous motion of the seconds hand around the dial.

Cubitus Watch: Uses a small subdial, which places the seconds' indicator in a separate register, allowing for a more classic look and reduced central dial clutter. From a technical perspective, the ‘hacking seconds’ mechanism operates through a lever or pin. It momentarily interacts with the balance wheel, temporarily halting its oscillation. This precision-engineered function showcases Patek Philippe’s commitment to both heritage and innovation. It ensures that the Cubitus not only captivates with its distinctive design but also delivers unmatched functionality.

Technical Edge

A sweep seconds hand is more legible in sporty and high-precision watches; besides, the small seconds design in the Cubitus reduces movement strain and allows for a more elegant display. This gives the Cubitus an edge in terms of classic haute horlogerie aesthetics.

Complications & Functionality

• Nautilus Watch: Displays only the date in an aperture, making it a more straightforward timepiece.

• Cubitus Watch: Features a grand date (double aperture), day display by hand, and moon phases. It provides more advanced calendar functions.

Technical Edge

The Cubitus Watch surpasses the Nautilus in terms of complications. The grand date mechanism requires the instantaneous switching of two discs, adding mechanical complexity. 

Technical Verdict: Has the Cubitus Watch Made Advancements?

The Cubitus Watch is technically more advanced than the Nautilus Watch due to the following reasons:

• More complications (grand date, moon phase, day by hand)

• Micro-rotor movement, allowing for a slimmer and more refined design

• Small seconds display, which enhances dial elegance and movement efficiency

While the Nautilus remains a high-performance, reliable sports-luxury watch, the Cubitus stands out in terms of sophistication, functionality, and watchmaking innovation.

Material Mastery: How Cubitus Elevates Nautilus’ Legacy

Nautilus: The Nautilus collection typically employs stainless steel, rose gold (an alloy of gold, copper, and sometimes silver), white gold (a premium alloy of gold mixed with white metals, such as palladium or nickel), and platinum in its case constructions. It maintains a strong balance between durability and luxury. The bracelet is usually made of the same material as the case, creating a seamless integration between the two. 

Cubitus: In the Cubitus watches, the case material (stainless steel) remains consistent with the Nautilus (stainless steel or gold). Additionally, the use of 22k gold in the rotor and the unique design of the ribbing set the Cubitus apart in terms of both technical and aesthetic craftsmanship.

Nautilus vs. Cubitus: A Side-by-Side Look at Finishing and Craftsmanship

Nautilus: Patek Philippe has always prioritised exceptional finishing in the Nautilus. Its brushed and polished surfaces are a hallmark of its refined craftsmanship. The case and bracelet feature alternating finishes, with the brushed steel providing a rugged yet elegant look. The polished areas catch the light, adding a touch of sophistication. The dial is typically decorated with subtle textures, and the movement's finishing reflects Patek Philippe's meticulous approach to horological artistry.

Finishing Difference: Cubitus vs. Nautilus

Cubitus: The Cubitus elevates finishing to a new level with bold design choices and meticulous details. Its angular case features highly polished surfaces and sharp lines that contrast with the more rounded aesthetics of the Nautilus. The movement's finishing is also elevated with refined craftsmanship, including the intricate detailing and ribbed rotor. The bracelet, while integrated, carries the same level of finishing. It offers a fluid yet defined look that aligns with the Cubitus’ modern, structured design.

Nautilus vs. Cubitus: Which Offers the Best Fit and Comfort?

Lug-to-Lug Distance: The lug-to-lug distance of the Nautilus is designed to suit a wide range of wrist sizes, making it versatile for daily wear. With its distinctive case geometry, the Cubitus has a longer or more pronounced lug-to-lug span, which could affect how it fits on smaller wrists. A larger wrist may find this design more fitting, but individuals with smaller wrists could experience discomfort or a less secure fit.

Clasp and Adjustability: Patek Philippe’s Cubitus and Nautilus collections showcase exceptional craftsmanship with a lockable adjustment system and a patented folding clasp designed for enhanced security and comfort. This innovative clasp features four independent fastening points, ensuring a precise and reliable fit on the wrist. 

Final Take on Wearability

The lockable adjustment mechanism allows wearers to fine-tune the bracelet length effortlessly, adapting to different wrist sizes with ease. These patented features elevate the overall wearing experience and longevity of the timepiece.

Market Positioning: A New Era or a Departure from Tradition?

Catering to Traditional Nautilus Fans: The Cubitus seems to appeal to watch enthusiasts who appreciate the technical innovation of Patek Philippe watches but might not resonate with the classic Nautilus purists. The angular design has put the Cubitus in a more contemporary space, making it less familiar to the traditionalists who adore the Nautilus' iconic curves and understated elegance. This shift in design and complexity could leave some Nautilus fans feeling alienated, as the Cubitus diverges from the watch’s original charm of minimalist sporty luxury.

Appealing to a New Audience: Cubitus targets a younger generation, who are drawn to bold aesthetics, innovative movement (such as the hacking seconds feature), and modern design. This makes it a potential hit for those seeking a new type of luxury—one that blends tradition with cutting-edge features. Additionally, the Cubitus’ structural design could easily appeal to those looking for a luxury sports watch with a more angular, contemporary aesthetic, distinguishing it from the softer, more classic lines of the Nautilus.

Wrapping Up: A Step Forward or a Misstep?

The Patek Philippe Cubitus is undeniably a bold move in the world of luxury sports watches, but whether it represents a natural evolution or an unnecessary detour from the Nautilus’s timeless legacy remains up for debate. 

On one hand, the Cubitus brings much-needed innovation, with modern design features and technical advancements like the stop-seconds mechanism, which will likely resonate with a new generation of collectors. Besides, it challenges the very essence of what made the Nautilus a global icon—its understated elegance and fluid, organic design.

While Patek Philippe Nautilus purists may view Cubitus as a bold deviation, its technical refinements and modernised aesthetics offer an exciting evolution. The hacking seconds function, unique rotor detailing, and sharper case profile make it an intriguing alternative for collectors seeking precision and contemporary design. 

This shift signals a potential evolution in Patek Philippe’s design philosophy, moving toward more bold, angular aesthetics and complex movements. However, whether this will alienate traditional fans or attract a broader audience remains to be seen. Given that the Cubitus was only released in 2024, it is too early to determine how it will perform in the coming years. Just as the Nautilus overcame initial resistance to become an icon, the Cubitus may follow a similar path—or take a different trajectory altogether. Collectors should approach the Cubitus with caution, as its long-term place in Patek’s history is yet to be proven. It may eventually become a classic, but its success is not guaranteed.

For collectors and enthusiasts seeking to explore rare and iconic timepieces, Chrono Divino offers an exclusive selection of Patek Philippe watches. Whether you're drawn to the refined elegance of the Nautilus 5712/1A or intrigued by the bold statement of the Cubitus 5822P, our curated collection ensures authenticity and investment-worthy craftsmanship.